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Velvet Revolution
1000 MB street rod
4 dveřový sedan, r.v. 1968
Motor: V8 Tatra.
Zgenerálkovaný s novými písty, kroužky, ložisky, těsněním atd. Od společnosti TatraVintage.cz
Rotační části, klika, setrvačník a spojka dynamicky vyvážené
Nové sací potrubí, navržené a vyrobené doma
Nový čtyřnásobný karburátor Edelbrock 1405 600cfm
Rozdělovač Mallory Unilte
MSD 6-AL2 programovatelný zapalovací modul
Zapalovací cívka MSD Blaster 2
VN kabely Magnecor
Systém mazání motoru upraved na plnoprůtokový filtr 0,01 mm
Olej 10W-30
Převodovka
Spojka, originální Tatra. vyvážený setrvačník, nová lamela.
Ovládací válec spojky upravený z nějakého moderního auta.
Hnací hřídele Tatra byly zkráceny a třecím svářením mají navařené drážkování Volvo.
Snímač rychlosti Proximity.
Převodový olej EP80 / 90
Modifikace zadní nápravy
Podélné rameno a těhlice navrženo a vyrobeno doma.
Ložiska převážně Volvo.
Zadní brzdy ze Škoda Superb rok 2000.
Zadní brzdové kotouče Volvo 740.
Pružiny a tlumiče, 9 "x 2.5" AVO, nastavitelné.
Kola TEAM 3 E.T., 15 "x 10", Classic V (z LA)
Přední náprava
Dvojitý lichoběžník. Některé díly z Mondea, Hyundai.
Hřebenové řízení a hřídel z Renaultu Clio. Vnější kulové čepy z VW Golf.
Těhlice navrženy a vyrobeny doma.
Přední brzdy, Iveco Daily 4, litinové čtyřpístkové třmeny.
Přední brzdové kotouče, upravené z VW LT.
Pružiny a tlumiče, 7 "x 2.5" AVO, nastavitelné
Kola, TEAM 3 E.T., 15 "x 5", Five Window (z LA)
Elektrická výbava
Vše navrženo a vyrobeno doma.
Spínače navržené a vyrobené speciálně mnou.
Avionika (letecké přístroje) od UMA & Westach.
Hudební systém - celkem hlasitá, ale zatraceně, je to auto, žádný taneční sál.
Funkce hubeního systému .. vypínač ON/OFF, 3,5 mm stereo vstup, vstup na kytaru s efekty.
Vstupy studeneého vzduchu z letadla McDonnell Douglas VC-10.
Topení na benzin Eberspacher se systémem voda-vzduch.
Interiér a doplňky
Volant a sundavací nába - hliník a plast (akryl), navržené a vyrobené doma.
Přední sedadla Jaguar XJ-S.
Čalounictví interiéru je právě ve výrobě u jedné milé paní z Trutnova.
Téma interiéru, zebra, žirafa, dalmatin, kůže, semiš, dřevo.
Podvozek
2 a 1-5/8 palcové CDS ocelové trubky.
Rozložení hmotnosti 40/60% předek/zadek
Celková hmotnost 1260 kg včetně rezervního kola, komplet nářadí, plné nádrže a 20 litrů rezervního paliva.
Karoserie
Hliníková palivová nádrž (52 litrů) umístěná uprostřed mezi hlavními nosníky a chráněná ocelovým plátem. Protože se nám nelíbí požáry.
Ochranný klecový rám. Sloupky A, B a C zesíleny.
Exteriér
Originální anglická hořčicově žlutá, vyšisovaná československou atmosférou a slunečními paprsky.
Prahy sníženy o 150 mm, což poskytuje úložný prostor pro náhradní válce, ložiska, těsnění a nářadí.
Laminátový kryt motoru GRP od společnosti KS Motorsport.
Diky, Eidy!
------------------------- -------------------------- --------------
1000MB street rod
1968 4 door saloon
Engine: V8 Tatra.
Re-built with new pistons, rings, bearings seals, gaskets etc from TatraVintage.cz
Rotating parts, crank, flywheel, clutch dynamically balanced
New hi rise inlet manifold, designed & made in house
New Edelbrock 1405 carburettor. 600CFM
Mallory Unilte distributor
MSD 6-AL2 programmable ignition module
MSD Blaster 2 coil
Magnecor leads
Engine lube system changed to full flow 0.01mm filter
Transmission
Clutch, original Tatra. Ground & Balanced, new friction disc.
Clutch operating cylinder, modified from some modern car.
Tatra drive shafts shortened & friction welded
Proximity speed sensor
15W30 engine oil,
Rear axle
Swing Axle principle as original
Springs & dampers, 9" x 2.5" AVO single adjustable
Wheels, Team 3 E.T. 15" x 8" Classic V (From LA)
EP80/90 gear oil
Front axle:
Double wishbone suspension. As original
Springs & dampers, 7" x 2.5" AVO single adjustable
Wheels, Team 3 E.T. 15" x 5" Five window (From LA)
Electrics:
All designed & made in house.
Switchgear designed & manufactured specially by me.
Aircraft instruments from UMA & Westach
Music system features.. On-off switch, 3.5mm stereo input.
Cold air vents from a McDonnel Douglas VC-10 aircraft
Heating system, Eberspacher petrol powered water - air.
Interior & decorations:
Steering wheel. Quick release, Aluminium & acrylic designed & made in house.
Front seats, Jaguar XJ-S
Interior theme, Zebra, Giraffe, Dalmatian, leather, suede, wood.
Imagine if Fabergé had crashed his MiG19 into Robert Mugabe's wardrobe.
How would he make his escape?
Weight distribution. 60% to the rear
Total weight 1260kg Includng spare wheel, full tool kit, full tank & 20 litres spare fuel.
Body:
Aluminium fuel tank (52 litre) m
Roll cage fitted behind the head cloth. A,B & C posts reinforced.
Exterior, original English Mustard yellow bleached by the Czechoslovakian atmosphere & sunshine.
Sills dropped by 150mm, making luggage space for spare cylinders, bearings, gaskets & tools.
GRP laminate engine cover from KS Motorsport.
4 dveřový sedan, r.v. 1968
Motor: V8 Tatra.
Zgenerálkovaný s novými písty, kroužky, ložisky, těsněním atd. Od společnosti TatraVintage.cz
Rotační části, klika, setrvačník a spojka dynamicky vyvážené
Nové sací potrubí, navržené a vyrobené doma
Nový čtyřnásobný karburátor Edelbrock 1405 600cfm
Rozdělovač Mallory Unilte
MSD 6-AL2 programovatelný zapalovací modul
Zapalovací cívka MSD Blaster 2
VN kabely Magnecor
Systém mazání motoru upraved na plnoprůtokový filtr 0,01 mm
Olej 10W-30
Převodovka
Spojka, originální Tatra. vyvážený setrvačník, nová lamela.
Ovládací válec spojky upravený z nějakého moderního auta.
Hnací hřídele Tatra byly zkráceny a třecím svářením mají navařené drážkování Volvo.
Snímač rychlosti Proximity.
Převodový olej EP80 / 90
Modifikace zadní nápravy
Podélné rameno a těhlice navrženo a vyrobeno doma.
Ložiska převážně Volvo.
Zadní brzdy ze Škoda Superb rok 2000.
Zadní brzdové kotouče Volvo 740.
Pružiny a tlumiče, 9 "x 2.5" AVO, nastavitelné.
Kola TEAM 3 E.T., 15 "x 10", Classic V (z LA)
Přední náprava
Dvojitý lichoběžník. Některé díly z Mondea, Hyundai.
Hřebenové řízení a hřídel z Renaultu Clio. Vnější kulové čepy z VW Golf.
Těhlice navrženy a vyrobeny doma.
Přední brzdy, Iveco Daily 4, litinové čtyřpístkové třmeny.
Přední brzdové kotouče, upravené z VW LT.
Pružiny a tlumiče, 7 "x 2.5" AVO, nastavitelné
Kola, TEAM 3 E.T., 15 "x 5", Five Window (z LA)
Elektrická výbava
Vše navrženo a vyrobeno doma.
Spínače navržené a vyrobené speciálně mnou.
Avionika (letecké přístroje) od UMA & Westach.
Hudební systém - celkem hlasitá, ale zatraceně, je to auto, žádný taneční sál.
Funkce hubeního systému .. vypínač ON/OFF, 3,5 mm stereo vstup, vstup na kytaru s efekty.
Vstupy studeneého vzduchu z letadla McDonnell Douglas VC-10.
Topení na benzin Eberspacher se systémem voda-vzduch.
Interiér a doplňky
Volant a sundavací nába - hliník a plast (akryl), navržené a vyrobené doma.
Přední sedadla Jaguar XJ-S.
Čalounictví interiéru je právě ve výrobě u jedné milé paní z Trutnova.
Téma interiéru, zebra, žirafa, dalmatin, kůže, semiš, dřevo.
Podvozek
2 a 1-5/8 palcové CDS ocelové trubky.
Rozložení hmotnosti 40/60% předek/zadek
Celková hmotnost 1260 kg včetně rezervního kola, komplet nářadí, plné nádrže a 20 litrů rezervního paliva.
Karoserie
Hliníková palivová nádrž (52 litrů) umístěná uprostřed mezi hlavními nosníky a chráněná ocelovým plátem. Protože se nám nelíbí požáry.
Ochranný klecový rám. Sloupky A, B a C zesíleny.
Exteriér
Originální anglická hořčicově žlutá, vyšisovaná československou atmosférou a slunečními paprsky.
Prahy sníženy o 150 mm, což poskytuje úložný prostor pro náhradní válce, ložiska, těsnění a nářadí.
Laminátový kryt motoru GRP od společnosti KS Motorsport.
Diky, Eidy!
------------------------- -------------------------- --------------
1000MB street rod
1968 4 door saloon
Engine: V8 Tatra.
Re-built with new pistons, rings, bearings seals, gaskets etc from TatraVintage.cz
Rotating parts, crank, flywheel, clutch dynamically balanced
New hi rise inlet manifold, designed & made in house
New Edelbrock 1405 carburettor. 600CFM
Mallory Unilte distributor
MSD 6-AL2 programmable ignition module
MSD Blaster 2 coil
Magnecor leads
Engine lube system changed to full flow 0.01mm filter
Transmission
Clutch, original Tatra. Ground & Balanced, new friction disc.
Clutch operating cylinder, modified from some modern car.
Tatra drive shafts shortened & friction welded
Proximity speed sensor
15W30 engine oil,
Rear axle
Swing Axle principle as original
Springs & dampers, 9" x 2.5" AVO single adjustable
Wheels, Team 3 E.T. 15" x 8" Classic V (From LA)
EP80/90 gear oil
Front axle:
Double wishbone suspension. As original
Springs & dampers, 7" x 2.5" AVO single adjustable
Wheels, Team 3 E.T. 15" x 5" Five window (From LA)
Electrics:
All designed & made in house.
Switchgear designed & manufactured specially by me.
Aircraft instruments from UMA & Westach
Music system features.. On-off switch, 3.5mm stereo input.
Cold air vents from a McDonnel Douglas VC-10 aircraft
Heating system, Eberspacher petrol powered water - air.
Interior & decorations:
Steering wheel. Quick release, Aluminium & acrylic designed & made in house.
Front seats, Jaguar XJ-S
Interior theme, Zebra, Giraffe, Dalmatian, leather, suede, wood.
Imagine if Fabergé had crashed his MiG19 into Robert Mugabe's wardrobe.
How would he make his escape?
Weight distribution. 60% to the rear
Total weight 1260kg Includng spare wheel, full tool kit, full tank & 20 litres spare fuel.
Body:
Aluminium fuel tank (52 litre) m
Roll cage fitted behind the head cloth. A,B & C posts reinforced.
Exterior, original English Mustard yellow bleached by the Czechoslovakian atmosphere & sunshine.
Sills dropped by 150mm, making luggage space for spare cylinders, bearings, gaskets & tools.
GRP laminate engine cover from KS Motorsport.
Velvet Revolution - komentáře:
-> Alec 14.05.18 22:21:32: My 68 usually took around 7 to 8 l/100km. If I tried i could get near 6l or if I pushed it I could get to 10l/100km
this project that's great!
You're right about friction.
To cut a long story short I am pleased with it.
Original Jikov 30ssop carbs have 4 barrels open all the time. Holley has 2 open barrels & 2 vacuum secondaries. The cross sectional area of the 2 open barrels is 15% smaller than the 4 Jikov barrels so I would expect the secondary barrels to open at high rpm but they don't. If the secondaries ever opened the CSA would become 1.7 x the Jikov's.
So I am running a smaller 2 barrel carb but with bigger jets. Still happy.
To cut a long story short I am pleased with it.
Original Jikov 30ssop carbs have 4 barrels open all the time. Holley has 2 open barrels & 2 vacuum secondaries. The cross sectional area of the 2 open barrels is 15% smaller than the 4 Jikov barrels so I would expect the secondary barrels to open at high rpm but they don't. If the secondaries ever opened the CSA would become 1.7 x the Jikov's.
So I am running a smaller 2 barrel carb but with bigger jets. Still happy.
-> Alec: I think you omit some details such as average speed. Tatra was always faster than Skoda therefore it consumes more fuel. Then you have larger engine with bigger internal friction and loses therefore it needs more fuel again. And then look at your tires. How many times wider they are compared to original Skoda? All these things combined causes the fuel consumption you have. I would say it is quite acceptable. Downsizing carb makes no sense. If suitable jets are fitted, then it will make no difference as engine needs certain amount of mixture to perform at the same speed/revs.
I know it sounds stupid but actual recorded numbers would be a useful benchmark because weight, wind resistance & therefore effort is similar.
My Skoda book says 7litre/100km. I say bullsh*t.
My fully loaded car weighs the same as an unladen Tatra 603. Tatra book says a fully loaded car should do 13litre/100km on the motorway at 115 kmh. Mine, also fully loaded does the same at that speed.
At 90 kmh I get 11.1 litres/100km loaded.
I can tolerate this but the performance is patchy because the carb is for a Mercury 5 litre. Thinking about down sizing.
My Skoda book says 7litre/100km. I say bullsh*t.
My fully loaded car weighs the same as an unladen Tatra 603. Tatra book says a fully loaded car should do 13litre/100km on the motorway at 115 kmh. Mine, also fully loaded does the same at that speed.
At 90 kmh I get 11.1 litres/100km loaded.
I can tolerate this but the performance is patchy because the carb is for a Mercury 5 litre. Thinking about down sizing.
-> Alec: What are you doing here? img.skoda-virt.cz/vase_au
ta_upload/.../11888_2018-0
5-05_21-33-58_60.jpg Turning it into jet ski? 
Not sure if consumption of original Skoda 100 is any helpful for you as you have V8. I would say it is ok if you get under 10l/100km. It is like 40mpg? When reasonably driving on the countryside. If you give it beans, you could make like 20mpg.
Not sure if consumption of original Skoda 100 is any helpful for you as you have V8. I would say it is ok if you get under 10l/100km. It is like 40mpg? When reasonably driving on the countryside. If you give it beans, you could make like 20mpg.
-> Alec: I don't think any of the original figures stated by the maker are gonna be accurate for a car with a hemi V8
Does anybody have some real fuel consumption data for original Skoda 1000mb 1100mb, 110 & so on? I am interested to know any best, worst & average figures. It helps me to know when to stop fiddling with this Holley carburettor.
Plánuji výlet do. 1. a 2. září a Prague Car Festival také některé turné.
Na fotografiích testuji auto na cestu do cz. 1000 km bez problémů
Na fotografiích testuji auto na cestu do cz. 1000 km bez problémů
super.
-> zabiakPUK: Chystá
keď pozerám fotky 123-130, to by ma zaujímalo, -aký ksicht by vystrúhali sk, cz fízli. nechystá sa na výlet do cz?
Rear window was OK. Front window was not OK. Do you think I should start again or can I rescue it? Also your estimate of 3 hours was very accurate. 4 hours, 3 men front & rear.
Thanks. I will try to do exactly what you said. I have changed zero windows so it is going to take all day.
na této adrese je i foto...
Postup u Škoda 100, 110, 110R , 1000 MB , STÉJNÉ !!!!
Postup u Škoda 100, 110, 110R , 1000 MB , STÉJNÉ !!!!
1) Lubricate the edge of the fire on both sides of the soap so that the window in the rubber will settle well
2) Blow the rubber on the window, beware of the connection. It will work best if it is in the middle and not accidentally.
3) Insert the aluminum strip into the rubber or whatever it is to be there. You can again help with soapy water.
4) Wrap the window from top to bottom with the wire so that the wire meets the lower edge, cut it and have a certain overlap.
5) Try to set the bottom as close as possible so that the center of the window is in the center of the car.
6) Press from the top of the window to force it to stay on the lower ribbon.
7) Slowly pull the seal over the wire over the body. I usually do it in parts. Piece to the left, piece to the right, piece to the left ...
8) Press on the top of the window to set it and help to seal the seat. It is also necessary to equalize the rubber seals so that they do not blur.
9) When the entire window is there, the seals will be redone and drawn inside.
Replace the front or rear windows
The whole process requires a certain amount of patience and a bit of time. New Window from eRka I had been around for three hours, window at rapida for about an hour and something. The new seal is much more sprawled in the opposite direction than on the car (logic, otherwise it will not leak), so it's a lot of work to do than it sits. Old seals are glazing much easier. It's a matter of a few minutes. The window from eRka is quite luminous and lets you enjoy it quite a bit, at rapida it's even worse. It is less arched and weaker.
Many happily changed windows ;-)
2) Blow the rubber on the window, beware of the connection. It will work best if it is in the middle and not accidentally.
3) Insert the aluminum strip into the rubber or whatever it is to be there. You can again help with soapy water.
4) Wrap the window from top to bottom with the wire so that the wire meets the lower edge, cut it and have a certain overlap.
5) Try to set the bottom as close as possible so that the center of the window is in the center of the car.
6) Press from the top of the window to force it to stay on the lower ribbon.
7) Slowly pull the seal over the wire over the body. I usually do it in parts. Piece to the left, piece to the right, piece to the left ...
8) Press on the top of the window to set it and help to seal the seat. It is also necessary to equalize the rubber seals so that they do not blur.
9) When the entire window is there, the seals will be redone and drawn inside.
Replace the front or rear windows
The whole process requires a certain amount of patience and a bit of time. New Window from eRka I had been around for three hours, window at rapida for about an hour and something. The new seal is much more sprawled in the opposite direction than on the car (logic, otherwise it will not leak), so it's a lot of work to do than it sits. Old seals are glazing much easier. It's a matter of a few minutes. The window from eRka is quite luminous and lets you enjoy it quite a bit, at rapida it's even worse. It is less arched and weaker.
Many happily changed windows ;-)
Gentlemen, Thanks for the advice.
It sounds crazy to do it that way. A bit like tightening your belt before you put on your trousers but I will take advice from experts
I tried that technique today & I am still unsuccessful. I think one problem is that I used detergent to lubricate the rubber & now everything is too slippy. Tomorrow I will wash & dry the rubber & try again. Do you think in should use some lubricant or not?.
One more stupid question...
What is the correct order of assembly? 1 Rubber on glass 2 metal in rubber
Or otherwise?
It sounds crazy to do it that way. A bit like tightening your belt before you put on your trousers but I will take advice from experts
I tried that technique today & I am still unsuccessful. I think one problem is that I used detergent to lubricate the rubber & now everything is too slippy. Tomorrow I will wash & dry the rubber & try again. Do you think in should use some lubricant or not?.
One more stupid question...
What is the correct order of assembly? 1 Rubber on glass 2 metal in rubber
Or otherwise?
What -> Tom S 1000 MB 1964: ment to say is that the trim should be put in the rubber before you install the window in the car.
It can be done with it on the car but it is pain in the you know where and you could break the window seal or the window itself.
It can be done with it on the car but it is pain in the you know where and you could break the window seal or the window itself.
