-> SparrPl: When you know Skoda inside out, then you can try to change just gearbox but now I recommend pull complete drivetrain. Plus it will be much easier to adjust tolerance of swing axle. There are paper gaskets to adjust it properly.
Gasket is between gearbox and this part img.skoda-virt.cz/vase_au
ta_upload/.../5353_2008-11
-23_21-31-02_27.jpg
Do you know what I mean?
skoda.virt.cz
stránky o vozech Škoda 105-136, Rapid, Garde a jejich předchůdcích
Skoda 105 Prevodovka 5
09:10:28
13.01.2021
13.01.2021
Eidy
08:44:46
13.01.2021
13.01.2021
SparrPl
Oki doki. All clear :)
Thank you guys :)
Thank you guys :)
23:51:23
12.01.2021
12.01.2021
Tom Troll
-> SparrPl: Removing the complete powertrain assembly (engine + transmission + swing rear axle all at once) is way easier than attempting to keep either of those in place, and the four extra bolts on the engine mounts aren't worth the hassle of keeping the engine in place.
23:05:34
12.01.2021
12.01.2021
SparrPl
I have one more question because i would like to start replace 4 gearbox to 5 - I have everything in my garage. But still wondering about:
Do i need remove the engine from car to put there 5 gearbox + car tank from skoda 89` + weld piece of floor? And then at the end put engine again inside? Or there is easy way to put all stuff without remove engine?
Thanks! :)
Regards from Poland
Do i need remove the engine from car to put there 5 gearbox + car tank from skoda 89` + weld piece of floor? And then at the end put engine again inside? Or there is easy way to put all stuff without remove engine?
Thanks! :)
Regards from Poland
12:29:09
18.11.2020
18.11.2020
SparrPl
Thanks :)
"I have the same "bad" Skoda 105 and I decided to go for dry axle with 4 speed but different gearing. Top speed will be similar but geometry and whole suspension is much better."
I dont expect raise top speed in that ooold car. Then we should think maybe about update break system etc. Just to have better comfort with speed around 100/110.
I will take a part in "ZLOMBOL", its nice charity rally every year around 500/700 cars from 'comunistic' perios (skoda, polonez, fso 125p, trabant etc.) go one direction to reach destination :) We have been in Scotland, Ireland and now is Turky destintion so looong way this is why comfort and speed around 100/110 km / h is so important to me ;)
"I have the same "bad" Skoda 105 and I decided to go for dry axle with 4 speed but different gearing. Top speed will be similar but geometry and whole suspension is much better."
I dont expect raise top speed in that ooold car. Then we should think maybe about update break system etc. Just to have better comfort with speed around 100/110.
I will take a part in "ZLOMBOL", its nice charity rally every year around 500/700 cars from 'comunistic' perios (skoda, polonez, fso 125p, trabant etc.) go one direction to reach destination :) We have been in Scotland, Ireland and now is Turky destintion so looong way this is why comfort and speed around 100/110 km / h is so important to me ;)
08:27:01
18.11.2020
18.11.2020
Eidy
-> SparrPl:
3) Yes, you need to cut and reshape part of body in that area. 5 speed gearbox is longer. You will see.
4a) Check this skoda-virt.cz/cz/.../1091 9-nadrz-skoda-105-136
4b) Yes. As pipes goe between gearbox and fuel tank, they are different based on mentioned above.
4d) You need to change layout of bowden on the floor so there is no sharp bend etc. otherwise there will be big friction and it will not work properly.
I have the same "bad" Skoda 105 and I decided to go for dry axle with 4 speed but different gearing. Top speed will be similar but geometry and whole suspension is much better.
3) Yes, you need to cut and reshape part of body in that area. 5 speed gearbox is longer. You will see.
4a) Check this skoda-virt.cz/cz/.../1091 9-nadrz-skoda-105-136
4b) Yes. As pipes goe between gearbox and fuel tank, they are different based on mentioned above.
4d) You need to change layout of bowden on the floor so there is no sharp bend etc. otherwise there will be big friction and it will not work properly.
I have the same "bad" Skoda 105 and I decided to go for dry axle with 4 speed but different gearing. Top speed will be similar but geometry and whole suspension is much better.
22:26:26
17.11.2020
17.11.2020
SparrPl
Hey :) Sory for delay.
Thank you veeeery much for your opinion, advises.
So, i decided to go with "wet" 5 gear box, especially one of colleague from Polish Skoda Fans Forum / Group offer me exactly this one. Its good for me because i dont want to modify a lot of things in my car and i feel "wet" 5 is enough :) Just for reduce noise arount 100km/h ;)
So the plan is:
1) buy 5 gearbox - let say already done ;)
2) buy fuel tank - i will be looking for it, already i have found some offert from CZ online markets - maybe somebody from this forum would like to sell me it and send to Poland? :)
3) Modify one part of the body - above the front end of the gearbox -> do you mean cut something? Weld some handle for gearbox?
4) Change the fuel tank and:
4a) metal undercover - hmm, what it is exactly?
4b) rear cooling pipes - rally? I have never heard about it with changing for "wet" gearbox :) Can it be the same pipes but move to other place or just buy pipes with the same diameter and connect?
4c) change shifting tie - this part is including with my gearbox 5 purchese
4d) speedometer bowden - if i not change it what happend?
Eidy:
"here is not much to add besides specific advices in case you chose 5 speed or/and dry axle. You don't have the best body to start with for such modification. But it is doable."
I know, but i like this model sooo much better then after "face" lifting. Additionally my father had the same car when i was baby. To be honest... my is much better condition in 2020 then my father's in 1990 :P
Thank you veeeery much for your opinion, advises.
So, i decided to go with "wet" 5 gear box, especially one of colleague from Polish Skoda Fans Forum / Group offer me exactly this one. Its good for me because i dont want to modify a lot of things in my car and i feel "wet" 5 is enough :) Just for reduce noise arount 100km/h ;)
So the plan is:
1) buy 5 gearbox - let say already done ;)
2) buy fuel tank - i will be looking for it, already i have found some offert from CZ online markets - maybe somebody from this forum would like to sell me it and send to Poland? :)
3) Modify one part of the body - above the front end of the gearbox -> do you mean cut something? Weld some handle for gearbox?
4) Change the fuel tank and:
4a) metal undercover - hmm, what it is exactly?
4b) rear cooling pipes - rally? I have never heard about it with changing for "wet" gearbox :) Can it be the same pipes but move to other place or just buy pipes with the same diameter and connect?
4c) change shifting tie - this part is including with my gearbox 5 purchese
4d) speedometer bowden - if i not change it what happend?
Eidy:
"here is not much to add besides specific advices in case you chose 5 speed or/and dry axle. You don't have the best body to start with for such modification. But it is doable."
I know, but i like this model sooo much better then after "face" lifting. Additionally my father had the same car when i was baby. To be honest... my is much better condition in 2020 then my father's in 1990 :P
10:16:58
11.11.2020
11.11.2020
Eidy
-> Bukaj: You nailed it. And your English is pretty good.
-> SparrPl: There is not much to add besides specific advices in case you chose 5 speed or/and dry axle. You don't have the best body to start with for such modification. But it is doable.
-> SparrPl: There is not much to add besides specific advices in case you chose 5 speed or/and dry axle. You don't have the best body to start with for such modification. But it is doable.
09:42:20
11.11.2020
11.11.2020
Bukaj
5° gearbox:
Until 1984 there were only 4° gearboxes in the Škoda cars, so you won´t be able to fit 5° gearbox without some modifications (cutting, welding) of the car body (carroserie).
For "wet" 5° you need to modify only one part of the body - above the front end of the gearbox (5° gearbox is about 6 cm longer).
Then you have to change the complete fuel tank (and its metal undercover - splash guard), rear cooling pipes and the shifting tie - rod (or shorten the original one). It is reccomended (but not necessary) to change also the shifting bracket (lever) and the speedometer bowden.
For "dry" gearbox you have to modify also the accumulator holder (box) and change also:
Gas filling tube and hose, complete rear axle with shock absorbers, springs, upper spring supports (screwed to body with two M8 screws) and gearbox holder...
...as you have "užovka" (older model with narrower track), you should get narrower "dry" rear axle from Garde and gearbox from 130/135/136/Rapid/120LX, which may be difficult. In case of you get complete wider rear axle and gearbox from 130/135/136/Rapid/120LX, you should use also the wider front axle from "M" (newer model with 6 cm wider track).
I hope, it is understandable to you, sorry for my English...
P.S.: the "dry" rear axle is, when in good condition, much better for car stability, drive comfort and more silent in the interior of the car (less vibrations and resonances transmitted throught the gearbox holder to the car body)
Until 1984 there were only 4° gearboxes in the Škoda cars, so you won´t be able to fit 5° gearbox without some modifications (cutting, welding) of the car body (carroserie).
For "wet" 5° you need to modify only one part of the body - above the front end of the gearbox (5° gearbox is about 6 cm longer).
Then you have to change the complete fuel tank (and its metal undercover - splash guard), rear cooling pipes and the shifting tie - rod (or shorten the original one). It is reccomended (but not necessary) to change also the shifting bracket (lever) and the speedometer bowden.
For "dry" gearbox you have to modify also the accumulator holder (box) and change also:
Gas filling tube and hose, complete rear axle with shock absorbers, springs, upper spring supports (screwed to body with two M8 screws) and gearbox holder...
...as you have "užovka" (older model with narrower track), you should get narrower "dry" rear axle from Garde and gearbox from 130/135/136/Rapid/120LX, which may be difficult. In case of you get complete wider rear axle and gearbox from 130/135/136/Rapid/120LX, you should use also the wider front axle from "M" (newer model with 6 cm wider track).
I hope, it is understandable to you, sorry for my English...
P.S.: the "dry" rear axle is, when in good condition, much better for car stability, drive comfort and more silent in the interior of the car (less vibrations and resonances transmitted throught the gearbox holder to the car body)
00:54:57
11.11.2020
11.11.2020
SparrPl
Přeložím to do češtiny, ale dal bych přednost angličtině, protože to není problém :)
00:00:40
11.11.2020
11.11.2020
Eidy
-> SparrPl: Budeš chtít odpovědi v Češtině nebo raději v Angličtině?
23:41:03
10.11.2020
10.11.2020
SparrPl
Ahoj.
Jsem z Polska. Toto je můj první příspěvek :)
Mám Skode 105 z roku 1982. ve velmi dobrém stavu plechu, chci to trochu vylepšit.
Mám čtyřstupňovou převodovku ve Škodě na mokrých hnacích hřídelích a mám několik otázek, zejména proto, že naše verze Škodu byly na některých místech vylepšovány každých pár let, proto mám takové problémy :)
Převodovka s:
1) Pokud vložím pětistupňovou převodovku do sady se suchými hnacími hřídeli, mělo by být vše plug and play? Je před námi spousta práce?
2) Jak bude pětistupňová převodovka na mokrých hnacích hřídelích, žádný problém, mohu ji nasadit a všechno se vejde?
3) Obecně jsou suché hnací hřídele mnohem spolehlivější než mokré hnací hřídele?
MOTOR:
1) Nasazení motoru 1,35 do Škody je nejlepší, co pro něj mohu udělat? :) V současné době mám 1,2 a uvažuji o změně, i když tato byla kompletně zrekonstruována před 10 000 km :)
Jsem z Polska. Toto je můj první příspěvek :)
Mám Skode 105 z roku 1982. ve velmi dobrém stavu plechu, chci to trochu vylepšit.
Mám čtyřstupňovou převodovku ve Škodě na mokrých hnacích hřídelích a mám několik otázek, zejména proto, že naše verze Škodu byly na některých místech vylepšovány každých pár let, proto mám takové problémy :)
Převodovka s:
1) Pokud vložím pětistupňovou převodovku do sady se suchými hnacími hřídeli, mělo by být vše plug and play? Je před námi spousta práce?
2) Jak bude pětistupňová převodovka na mokrých hnacích hřídelích, žádný problém, mohu ji nasadit a všechno se vejde?
3) Obecně jsou suché hnací hřídele mnohem spolehlivější než mokré hnací hřídele?
MOTOR:
1) Nasazení motoru 1,35 do Škody je nejlepší, co pro něj mohu udělat? :) V současné době mám 1,2 a uvažuji o změně, i když tato byla kompletně zrekonstruována před 10 000 km :)